No Duck Mo (“NDM”) - Part 7, Portability & Conclusion (final Part)

Portability

For transportation and storage, the NDM must be able to be broken down into smaller pieces. I chose to use two “coffin” boxes each of which would be easier to handle than one larger box. The NDM base serves as the bottom of one of these boxes. A ¼ inch plywood box consisting of a top and four sides was constructed to fit snugly over the top of the base. It was high enough to accommodate not only the base but also then two vertical towers when dismantled. These are held in place with simple braces to prevent them slopping around in transit.

The second “coffin” consists of a complete box with a removable lid. All components of the NDM deck, including the bridge, fit inside this box. The bottom edge of this box is skirted with 1x3 dimensional lumber which protrudes beneath the bottom edge by about 1 inch. This allows the top coffin to sit snugly on top of the base coffin without any lateral movement. The two bolts used to hold each tower inside the base are used to retain the cover of the bottom coffin to the base by simply sliding through holes in the cover and holes in the base. These are secured by cotter pins which pass through holes drilled through each of the bolts (I ground off a flat spot on the bolts just below the head to facilitate the drilling of these holes as it can be difficult to drill a hole through the curved side of a bolt). The second coffin sits atop the base coffin and sits atop a plywood base mounted on industrial casters for rolling in and out of my trailer and as well as train show venues.

the base forms the bottom of the lower "coffin"; the vertical towers lie horizontally across the base; picture shows two retaining sleeves that fit over the towers to keep them secure

base packed with the two retaining sleeves in place

a different angle

my "Rube Goldberg" retainer; this and the bolt on the other end are the same 5 inch bolts used to secure the towers to the base; note the bolt has a flat spot ground into the side to facilitate drilling the hole which accepts the cotter pin

the cotter pin in position through the hole in the wood bracket

the "lower coffin" containing the base and the vertical towers, with the lid installed; it is now ready to place the "upper coffin" on top which contains all of the other components

upper coffin sitting atop the lower coffin

interior of upper coffin includes various spacers and markings so all the pieces are placed correctly and in the correct order

one of the wings in the upper coffin

the bridge is now added

the second wing is now added -- this is the last piece

the lid is installed and retained by brass latches at each end

all packed up and ready to go; for transport, is placed on a sheet of plywood with industrial casters to facilitate rolling into and out of the trailer both at home at at shows

Conclusion

The No Duck Mo has proven to be a success, at least based on the comments I have received from fellow show participants and members of the public. I hope that with the foregoing narrative will be of some assistance to anyone interested in embarking on a No Duck Mo adventure themselves.

I am planning on building a version 2 No Duck Mo for my basement layout. When I do this, I shall document and process and post another series of blogs.

No Duck Mo (“NDM”) - Part 6, Setup

Setup of the NDM is quite straightforward. However, it is important to distinguish the physical assembly of the structure from the fine-tuning adjustments that are crucial to it working flawlessly when inserted between two other Free-mo modules.

I have prominently marked all adjacent parts with red and green paint to simply assembly.

Physical assembly entails unpacking the coffin containing the base and the two towers. Each tower is slid into its pocket in the base and the bolts that had been securing the coffin top to the base are each slid through the holes through each tower to lock the towers in place. These bolts do not need to be fastened in place – friction fit is enough. However, it is advisable to have the bolt heads located on the bridge side of each tower to avoid the other end of the bolt protruding into the space where people are walking, potentially causing injury.

Next the open-close wing is slid on to the top of its tower followed by the wing with the hinge. I constructed the wings so each could be slide off the base however, this is not strictly necessary. I have permanently glued the wing on the open-close side so it cannot be removed. The hinge side is still removable, simply to make the parts less unwieldy and easier to pack.

Once all the parts are in place, each of the six turnbuckles need to be hooked into their respective end hooks.

Next all wiring can be connected.

Finally, the NDM should be “fine tuned” BEFORE attaching it to an adjacent module, in the following order:

  1. Adjust the up/down height turnbuckles on each side of the towers so the track on each side of the opening is roughly the same height above the floor.
  2. Adjust the turnbuckles on either side of the towers that move the towers in and out until the bridge closes snugly but is not tight.
  3. Adjust the turnbuckles underneath each wing until the track is level across the top.
  4. Fine tune steps 2 and 3 as necessary.
  5. Fine tune step 1 so the overall height is correct above the floor.

When the NDM is attached to adjacent modules some fine tuning of steps 1 through 3 above may be necessary. When all is done, the most critical test is that the bridge will open and close smoothly, fitting snugly but not tight when closed and that there are no “ski-jumps” anywhere in the track. This needs to be re-checked when adjacent modules are attached as forces can be imparted on the NDM to move the bridge closing out of alignment. The good news is that, once all fine tuning is complete and adjacent modules are attached, I have found that additional adjustments are rarely required, if at all.


lining up one of the wings to slot into the centre section

almost assembled

the wing in its assembled position; the turnbuckle underneath is to take the strain off this "overhang" and to make it level

see the brass latches which lock each wing into position; note the Anderson power poles which have not yet been connected

the bridge as it is lowered into position

the bridge fully lowered; note the notch in the bridge so it aligns precisely with its adjacent end; the arrow is there to remind operators which end lifts up

fully assembled and ready to attach to adjacent modules
To be continued...

No Duck Mo (“NDM”) - Part 5, Wiring and Rolling Stock Barriers

Part 4 referred to a DC current used to power Tortoise by Circuitron (“Tortoise”) barriers which provide some measure of safety by blocking the passage of rolling stock when the bridge is raised. While track power is removed from both wings of the NDM when the bridge is raised, in some situations this safety measure can be innocently defeated, such as:
  1. If one happens to be backing a lengthy train out of a siding on an adjacent module the rear end of the train could easily fall through the open bridge if the operator is not paying attention.
  2. If a multiple unit consist is being operated with motive power located mid-train some locomotives are sufficiently powerful to push the front unit into the void, again if the operator is not paying attention.
  3. If a locomotive is equipped with a Keep Alive or similar super capacitor the run time of the locomotive in the absence of track power may defeat the dead track section, again if the operator is not paying attention. 
Notwithstanding these safety precautions, operator error is the fault of the operator and there is no way to prevent all permutations of “stupid”.

The 12-volt DC power used to operate the Tortoise barriers is supplied by the very simple use of a bridge rectifier which taps AC power from the Free-mo accessory bus and converts it to DC power. Bridge rectifiers can be obtained from several suppliers including Mouser or Digi-key (see my Links I Like page).

Before this project I had always respected the warning clearly stated by Circuitron, “Warranty is Void if Label is Damaged or Removed”. The only way to open one of these by unscrewing 5 Philips screws is to damage or remove the label (i.e., they don’t want you taking it apart).However, having used many Tortoises over the years for their intended purpose of operating turnouts and their very useful properties of not only containing stall motors which draw very little current when “stalled” while at the same time exerting considerable torque, I suspected that repurposing a couple of Tortoises would serve my purpose well. Besides, I like taking things apart to see how they work so this was the perfect opportunity to do so with a Tortoise.

Inside the very robust Tortoise is a simple plastic gear train, part of which consists of a strong shaft the cross-section of which is in the shape of a cross, as in a + sign. By drilling two small holes in this shaft about 1 inch from each other it was possible to bend a piece of piano wire to pass through each hole in the shape of a flat-bottomed “U” and firmly affixed in place with epoxy. With a little “Dremel surgery” to the green outer case I was able to have the two ends of the flat-bottomed “U” protrude out through the case. I bridged these ends with a couple of pieces of flat styrene sandwiched together. When 12-volt DC power is fed to the Tortoise in one direction the piano-wire mounted styrene flips in one direction and when the 12-volt DC power direction is reversed the styrene flips in the other direction. I made two such Tortoise barriers and mounted one on each side of the bridge opening so they both flip when the bridge is opened and down, out of the way, as the bridge is lowered.

While my Tortoise barrier design was very reliable and robust, in practice it had two drawbacks, as follows:

  1. The barrier located at the hinged end of the bridge gets caught between the bridge and the wing if the bridge is lowered too quickly. This is not a problem if the NDM is being used by my local Free-mo group because all its members are well aware that the bridge must be lowered slowly. However, when used in a setting with many operators such as Big Valley this becomes a hindrance. Therefore, I inserted an Anderson Power Pole connector in the circuit of this Tortoise barrier so it can be deactivated when desired. In hindsight, this barrier is not as important as the one on the open-close end of the bridge because the bridge itself provides a reasonable physical barrier by itself when open.
  2. The barrier at the open-close end of the bridge works very well at preventing rolling stock from falling into the chasm. However, when the barrier is up, and operators are walking through the open bridge, loose clothing or clothing ensconcing a “wide load” can get snagged on the barrier. 
My intention is to redesign the barriers, so they are not located at the very ends of the bridge gaps. Instead, the Tortoises would be relocated to be underneath the wings on each side and raise and lower some sort of rod, gate or bar located under the track or on top of the module.

The remainder of the wiring of the NDM is quite straightforward. However, it made ample use of different coloured Anderson Power Poles as well as differing stacking of same in order to foolproof the connection of the many wires during setup.

Note that I did no adhere to the Free-mo standard of including a Digitrax UP5 in the NDM for the simple reason that, with power being cut to the NDM track each time the bridge is opened there seemed little point in including one of these. Besides, in my experience, few low-profile traditional duck-under modules include a Digitrax UP5 either.



To be continued...