Happy New Year!

I, along with several other members of our model railroad club, participate in several public model railroad events each year. I often receive comments and questions from show guests about how I made something that is on display or about other aspects of the hobby. While I always do my best to answer such questions as thoroughly as possible, sometimes the topic is too 'big' to cover in a chat at a train show.

This was the genesis of my blog. I had seen other modelers' blogs (see my links page) and it dawned on me that it might be helpful to people if I could refer them to my blog if they have a question about the hobby. Some of these discussions at train shows also gave me ideas about what to write.

I began this blog in January 2019. My goal was to ensure that I posted at least three items per month so visitors always had new material to read. Including this posting I will have posted 44 blog entries in the past 12 months so I have more than met this goal. My regular posting dates are the 1st, 11th and 21st day of each month.

I hope that readers have found at least some of the information useful. If you ever want to get in touch you can do so through the contact form located at the bottom right of the home screen when using the full page web version (as opposed to the smart phone version which is configured somewhat differently to make it easier to read on such a device). You can also email me directly at:

rupertsinsights@gmail.com

From time to time I also post entries of non-model railroad projects as well as selections of photographs from various trips we have been on. Tomorrow's post will contain pictures from a 10-night Dalmatian Coast cruise that my wife and I enjoyed in November along with our good friends from Calgary.

Wishing you a happy and healthy 2020.


A couple of pictures from Regina Railfest 2019 which show the opportunities to interact with show guests:




Fast Tracks Turnouts

From the time I first got into the model railroading hobby one of my greatest sources of frustration has been turnouts (for those of you reading this who are not in the hobby these are often colloquially called switches). This is a picture of two prototype turnouts found in the real world (the one in the foreground is a left  turnout and the one in the distance is a right turnout):


In this post I am not going to venture into the terminology associated with turnouts as this is a very extensive topic about which many authors have written a great deal. My purpose is to provide the hobbyist with an outline of my experiences in the past few years that have solved one of the most annoying aspects of the model railroad hobby – sourcing reliable, well-built and reasonably priced turnouts that meet my needs whenever I need them. You may have experienced some of the same frustrations when it comes to turnouts:

  1. Even when local hobby shops were much more plentiful than they are today, the odds that you would be able to find a number 4.5 left turnout or a curved number 8 right turnout on the day you need it would be slim. It would involve having the hobby shop order what you needed and waiting … and waiting. The alternative and often the only source for many hobbyists is online. This involves searching the websites of one or more websites to locate the type of turnout(s) that you are looking for. If you are looking for several turnouts for some new trackwork you are laying this often means that you need to place multiple orders because no one vendor has everything that you need. Again, you wait for the order(s) to be shipped.
  2. My modelling skills may not be as advanced as many who read this but there have been many occasions when I thought I needed three number 6 turnouts only to find that I would have been better off to have ordered two number 6 and one number 5 because of space limitations. This means that another order must be placed, and you are left with an extra turnout because it is usually not practical to return one that you have mail ordered.
  3. It is not unusual for me to have a carefully thought out track plan when I place my turnout order only to realize during the actual construction phase that the design could be improved. I know many of you will be better than me at visualizing the result of your planning. I, however, often will change my design on the fly because when I see the track and turnouts loosely placed on the benchwork I realize that a left turnout would produce a more pleasing result than the right turnout I had anticipated (and purchased). When this happens, I have to place another order and wait…and wait for it to arrive (Are you getting the impression that I can be rather impatient? You would be correct.)
  4. It is not hard to pay anywhere from C$30 to C$80 for a turnout, depending on the type of turnout, the exchange rate, customs brokerage and shipping charges and how large the order is.
  5. I have had very mixed experiences with the quality control of commercial turnouts. Over the years I have had encountered commercial turnouts which are not built to the proper specifications. On more than one occasion I have incorrectly assumed otherwise only to find that the installed turnout has chronic derailments. By this time the turnout has been fastened down, the wiring soldered to the frog and rails and the turnout has been soldered to the adjacent track. Curses!

The solution is Fast Tracks turnouts. About three years ago I saw an advertisement in Model Railroad Hobbyist that had been placed by Fast Tracks. Since MRH is an on-line magazine it has handy hot links to all its advertisers. Intrigued, I clicked on the Fast Tracks link and was totally blown away by what I saw.

I spent quite a bit of time navigating around the Fast Tracks website looking at their product lineup. I downloaded the very extensive PDF file that they provide with clear instructions on how to build one of their turnouts. I watched some of their videos. It quickly became apparent that this was an ingenious idea. I haven’t purchased a commercial turnout since. Instead, I have built every turnout I have in the model railroad that I am currently building including crossover and curved turnouts. I am guessing that by now I have built 40 or 50 turnouts.

Fast Tracks sells you the jigs and special parts and tools you need to build one or many different types of turnout. I won’t get into much more detail here because their website contains so much clear documentation. A note to Canadian hobbyists – even though Fast Tracks is in Canada they sell everything in US dollars (clearly, these guys are smart business-people too). This also means that you are not paying to ship their products across a border.

Yes, your initial investment is high compared with the cost of a commercial turnout. However, when this is spread across the many turnouts you can build your cost per turnout drops each time you build another one. It now takes me between 60 minutes and 90 minutes to build a turnout. Once you have built a couple you get faster at it. I now rarely need to look at the instructions.

For your efforts you end up with a very precise turnout built to accurate specifications. I find the construction process relaxing. It is also very satisfying. If I decide a need a number 6 left turnout this afternoon I can simply sit down at the workbench and build one.

I should note that Fast Tracks purchased Mount Albert Scale Lumber in recent years. A link to their lumber products is found on the Fast Tracks website. They also carry many other very useful items for your modelling needs such as frog juicers, track gauges, wood and PC board ties, QuickSticks (see the second picture below) and even building kits.

Please note that I have no personal or financial connection to Fast Tracks. I am simply a very satisfied customer.

A few pictures for illustration:

A couple of assembly jigs - the one in the foreground is for making number 5 code 83 left and right turnouts and the other one is for making number 8 code 83 gantlet tracks which are a form of turnout which have no moving parts (to pass two parallel tracks through a narrow opening, such as a narrow bridge).

PC ties at the top and a QuickSticks assembly for making a number 6 turnout (it can be turned over to make a right turnout). The completed turnout is glued to the QuickSticks using Pliobond adhesive (see picture below). Once the adhesive has been vulcanized to the QuickSticks the excess wood on either side of the turnout's ties is snapped off, leaving the wood ties under the turnout. The visible gaps in the ties are where PC board ties fit that have been soldered to the turnout in a jig such as in the first picture.

Some of the tools used in the making of a Fast Tracks turnout. The rail bender is optional - I have had good success gently bending rail by gently running its side along my thumb to make a smooth curve that fits into the assembly jig.

A completed number 6 left turnout before being weathered (I do all my weathering after the turnout has been mounted in place on my model railroad).

Here are a couple of completed Fast Tracks turnouts in place on my model railroad:



Micro Drill Press

Those of you who are hobbyists, whether in model railroading or otherwise, likely have some sort of pin vice which might look like one of the following.




These are handy little tools into which very tiny drill bits can be inserted. The tool is then gently turned with one’s fingers to make a hole in items such as wood, plastic or a PCB board. The operative word is “gently” – if you are not very careful it is easy to snap the drill bit, the cost of which seems to be inversely proportional to the size of the bit. Another downside to using a pin vice is that, because you are holding it in your hand, it is very difficult to drill a hole that you know is exactly perpendicular to the object you are drilling.

One of the items my friend John built with his 3D printer was a micro drill press using a modified Thingiverse design. His drill press is very useful for drilling holes in the PCB boards that he uses in his projects. With the purchase of my 3D printer in the summer of 2019 I got thinking about how useful it would be to have a micro drill press of my own. However, as I would be using my drill press to drill holes in objects of different sizes and shapes, the design John used would not work for many of my applications. For example, if the object I want to drill a hole through is 3 inches high it would not fit. I had to come up with a different design.

Turning to Thingiverse myself I found a design by “trevmas” that was published on Thingiverse on August 5, 2017 (it is thing 2469137). This design allows for the head of the drill press to be raised and lowered to different heights. Here is his design:



While I liked this design, there were four features that I successfully modified:
  1. I wanted the head to be able to move even higher than in the design. While this can be accomplished by simply installing longer vertical slider rods, this tends to make the whole structure a bit wobbly front-to-back. My solution was to install a third vertical but threaded rod that could be secured tightly at the top and bottom. This prevents any front-to-back movement.
  2. I wanted to have the ability to adjust the friction of the slider on the rods because, over time the 3D printed slider will gradually wear.
  3. I wanted an adjustable stop so the end of the drill bit would lower a pre-determined distance for those instances in which depth is critical.
  4. I wanted to have a light to shine down on the work surface. This I installed using two white LED which point down from the bottom of added bracket.
  5. I wanted a place to store the chuck key, so I am less likely to lose it. The key sits in a hole at the top of the same bracket.
I purchased the complete 12-volt DC motor and zero clearance chuck for C$16.00 from Amazon. The motor and chuck are nicely finished and work very smoothly. For power I used a variable voltage wall-wart transformer which has a slider for choosing 12, 9, 5 and 3 volts. Motor speed is changed by varying the voltage.

This little drill comes in handy more often than I expected. I know the holes are perpendicular to the surface being drilled and I have not broken a drill bit yet.

Here are a few pictures.






note the bracket with the light and chuck key holder on the left





Favorite Tools

In the spirit of the Christmas season I thought I would do a post showing some of my favorite "go to" tools. While all of these are useful in the model railroad hobby, most are also very useful for woodworking or general home handyman work.

If you see one or two that you like the look of, put them on your Christmas list or buy yourself a gift - you deserve it, I am sure!


This is a paint brush cleaner (Micro-Mark). It has a reservoir of clean water in an upside-down refillable bottle on top, a well where the clean water for cleaning brushes is contained and a tank in the base to hold the dirty water. When cleaning a hobby brush, the dirty water is drained into the base by pressing the blue button in the foreground - this drops the drain plug slightly so the dirty water can drain out. Very handy.




You can never have enough clamps. The top two need no explanation. The pliers on the right are not common as the jaws are smooth and keep perfectly parallel to one another when they close. I don't use these a lot but they sure come in handy when I need them (Micro-Mark).

The red clamps are made by Bachmann (Kalmbach publications on-line store; I have seen in some hobby shops). Each clamp consists of a top and a bottom piece which attract to each other with strong magnets. The angle can be adjusted to fit the shape of the item you want to hold (such as the roof of a model building which needs to be precisely positioned while the adhesive sets).

The small metal clamp at the bottom, middle is from a dollar store. It is very strong yet light and the jaws have a nice protective rubber coating.

The four clamps at the bottom-right are all versions of good old clothes pegs. The blue one to the right is a modern plastic take-off on the design of traditional wooden clothes pegs (the regular wooden one and the two miniature ones were all purchased at a dollar store).





These are some of my favorite measuring and marking devices. The two stainless steel rulers on the left are very useful because the edge remains very straight and the markings are clear (from a dollar store). The third ruler from the left shows various measurements in various model railroad scales, such as HO, N and O (Model Train Stuff; Micro-Mark).

The set square is small and accurate (Micro-Mark).

The tape measure device has a mechanical pencil on the smaller end. The larger end houses the metal tape measure, beneath which there a sharp metal point. This is very useful for drawing accurate arcs of up to several feet (Micro-Mark).

The angular stainless steel device on the right is for precisely drawing a line across the diameter of a round object, such as a wooden dowel. By making two such lines perpendicular to each other you can quickly find the precise centre of the object -- very handy if you want to drill a hole in the centre (Micro-Mark).





Another thing you can't have enough of is files. The file on the left is a rasp and is strictly for use with wood. It is course and is excellent for smoothing away jagged edges following a rough sawing job or simply to remove lots of wood.

The next four smaller files are all include a flat file, a round file, a triangular file and a flexible flat file. These files are from various sources.

The pointy things in the yellow case are reamers. These are very hand for slightly enlarging a hole that you have drilled when the hole is not quite big enough for your needs but using a larger-diameter drill bit would make the hole too big (Micro-Mark).

The yellow-handled device at the top-right is a Stanley Surform file (hardware store). This is great for getting rid of imperfections in cork model railroad track bed or for filing extruded foam.




The small tray at the top left contains a very strong magnet underneath the metal tray. I have several of these in different sizes. This is great for holding small screws or other small ferrous metal objects because it reduces the chance of losing small parts. These can be purchased at many automotive supply stores.

The package at the top right contains micro brushes. Available from most hobby shops as well as on-line, these are great for very tiny painting jobs or applying lubricant or soldering flux in situations where precision is important.

The device at the left is a nibbler (Micro-Mark). Once a hole has been cut in sheet material large enough to accommodate the head of this device, it is used to "nibble" away at the material, bit by bit - it cuts the material out in little squares, making it easy to make square corners.

The red-handled device is an awl (many hardware stores). This sharp object is good for many things including rounding off small holes, making small holes or making pilot holes in wood prior to drilling to prevent the drill bit from wandering.

The wooden box at the right is a set of various X-acto knives (Micro-Mark, hobby shops and many other vendors).




Another tool you can't have enough of: tweezers. The five tools starting from the left are tweezers of various sizes and shapes. The second and fifth from the left are clamping tweezers which are closed all the time and only open when squeezed - great for holding things when, for example, soldering.

The two tools on the right are Kelly Clamps - medical devices, a non-medical version of which can be obtained from many auto supply, hardware and other retailers. The two tools at the top are dental tools, a non-dental version of which can be obtained from the same sources. These dental tools are great for marking, shaping, etc. of softer material as well as for retrieving things from small spaces.




A good selection of weights and other devices to hold things in place is very useful. I'll start with only item in the above picture which is not technically a weight, the wallpaper roller at the top right. This relies on the weight applied by you to the work being done. I find this roller indispensable when gluing cork roadbed to the sub-roadbed of a model railroad. By running the roller up and down on the top of the cork, the adhesive under the cork is spread and the final result is much more even than if it had not been rolled.

All other items in the picture are weights. To the left of the roller is BB shot, available from a hunting supply store as well as at many others, such as Walmart. This particular brand has the beads coated in copper. The plastic container itself is very heavy when full of BB shot and makes a good weight on its own. However, by loading some of the BB shot into a plastic or cloth bag this makes for an excellent weight if you want to hold down something that is uneven or even on an angle. For example, if you are gluing a completed peaked roof of a building to the building itself, placing the weighted bag over the peak of the roof to weigh it down.

The two small square rods to the left of the bag of BB shot are scraps from when I replaced the banisters of the main staircase in our previous house. They are made of heavy steel square tubing, painted with a baked powder-coated paint making the finish very durable and non-marking.

The weight with holes further to the left is a Micro-Mark product sold as a very precisely machined block for truing items that need to be exactly perpendicular to each other. The holes are all threaded so one block could be attached to another such block. These also make excellent weights.

The brass cube on the very left is a solid brass paperweight.

The miniature anvil (Micro-Mark) is a great anvil but it also serves as an excellent weight.

The cross section of rail is an actual slice of rail from Canadian Pacific - I wonder if CP has discovered the gap yet?!!!

Finally the tall cylinder with the loop at the top is from a 200-year old grandfather clock which I inherited from my late father who purchased it at an estate sale in the UK. The bell in this clock is more appropriate to the musty halls of the old English stately home than in a typical Canadian home - it is very loud so we don't use it. This weight is the one would power the bell mechanism. This clock weight is easily the heaviest thing I own, by volume.




This wonderful device is from Lee Valley tools. By simply decanting your favorite adhesive into this device (I use it for yellow wood glue but white glue could be used also). Adhesive is dispensed by removing the red silicon cap to which glue does not stick, and squeezing gently. The spout produces a flat stream of glue, the thickness of which depends on where you trim the spout when it is first used. You can always see how much is left in the container and you never have to turn the container upside down for the glue to come out when it is getting low. I have one of these in my workshop and one in my train room. Lee Valley sells these in two sizes.

Links to several of the vendors I have mentioned can be found on the "Links I like" tab at the top of my blog page.

I hope this has been helpful. Perhaps some of these tools will someday find a home in your tool collection.